Photo Graph

Discussions in Photography


Old School New School

I purchased some larger SD cards (32gb) the other day.  They aren’t the fastest cards but the price was right and they work just fine in both the Nikon D600 and my little Fujifilm X-M1.  On the X-M1 the give me something like 1200 images before I run out of space.  With all that space I thought I would try out creating jpg files along with the normal raw files.

Fujifilm is known for it color film and they have included profiles for some of their more famous film stocks. I shot some images of Fred our backyard plant. I tried to emulate the feel of the jpg when doing the raw conversion in Lightroom 5.4. I wasn’t quite spot on with my conversion but I like the extra crispness I processed into the image.


Vievia (Vivid)This first image is the jpeg file direct from the camera. The only change was to resize down to 1600 x 960. The Veivia has some very nice reds and is a little soft.

Raw (Processed)This is my attempt at duplicating the feel of the Fujifilm. I cropped the raw file down to 16×9 like the jpeg and then pushed and pulled the Lightroom levers to this result.  I should probably add the raw file so we compare to how the raw file is presented before customization.



Night Photography

Using todays modern cameras images of stars in the night can be easily obtained. As long as you live or can get to a place where night time is actually dark.  My backyard just is not the place. Kind of like living in a large camera with a light leak. Still with a bit of effort you can get some interesting images.   Full Of Stars This was from my backyard shooting almost straight up.  The image was taken on a 16mm fish-eye at F2.8  for 15 seconds with an ISO of 800. If I didn’t have so much ambient light I could have either extended the open shutter time or upped the ISO to pull in the fainter stars.

Using a wide angle lens gives you a view of a larger portion of the sky it also allows for longer exposures without the starts moving in the image. A lens between 16mm and 28mm is your best bet. Use the most wide open aperture that your lens allows.  F/1.4 to F2.8 if you have a lens that opens up that wide.  You must have a really sturdy tripod. You should also use a remote shutter release or use the self timer to let the camera stabilized before the shutter opens. The last issue is to get the stars in focus which you probably will do manually unless you have a real good live view on your camera. I try to set my focus just below infinity (even stars are not an infinite distance from the lens).

Beware, night photography can become addicted and you end up doing things like getting up at 2:45am to try and see nonexistent meteor showers.   jr